I’ve been to Boston, MA, a few times over the years.  The first was back in high school, when my family and I traveled all over the country one summer looking at colleges for my older sister.  I was probably 15 or 16 at the time and torn between adolescent melodramatic mood swings and an innate love of travel.  I don’t remember everything – the cities blur together in my memory a bit – but I do remember the food.  We were there during the Feast of Saint Anthony (celebrated on the last weekend of August, and not to be missed if you can swing it), and the streets of the North End were filled with food vendors.  Most notably, this was when I tried my first raw shellfish – a clam on the half shell, an instant hit – and my family still talks about the Cannoli Lady on a regular basis.

Then, in 2017, I went with my Ex and another couple for a long weekend.  That was back when I was still drinking, and we ate and drank our way around the city like that was the only reason to be alive.  Like seriously, I think the only thing we did other than eat and drink, go to markets and breweries and distilleries and restaurants and bars, was a tour of Fenway Park!  This was in the days when my drinking was still somewhat in control (it hadn’t become a secret compulsion yet at least), and it was a glorious trip.

In 2021, after over a week of driving around Maine, I returned to Boston on August 26^th to spend a day or two there before heading back to New Orleans.  I was supposed to go home on the 28^th, but there was a hurricane scheduled to make landfall on the 29^th, so I pushed my flight to see what it would do.  Well, that was Hurricane Ida – it struck on the 16^th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina and was second only to that infamous hurricane in destruction to Louisiana.  And on top of the devastation, we learned that there was one single tower, through which all the power for the entire city of New Orleans funneled.  One.  And it fell into the river.  The city was without power for a month, and I stayed in Boston.  

Later I went on to New York City (where tourism hadn’t fully returned, which was truly special – but that’s a story for another day), and then on to family, but first I got to really explore this fabulous city all by myself, with no preparation or plan in place.  Everything was still pretty limited by Covid, but the weather was fine, and I did self-guided audio walking history tours, and boat tours (including one ill-fated sunset harbor and wildlife cruise where we saw a whole lot of fog), and garden strolls.  And I ate well.

Fast forward to the fall of 2024.  I was visiting a good friend in Southern New Hampshire when I learned that there was a Salvador Dali exhibit at the art museum in Boston, a mere hour away.  I love Dali.  Ever since I spent a semester in Barcelona 20 years ago, I have just found him so whimsical and charming, and yet deep and dark.  And here I was, 60 minute drive away from said art museum, with my car and plenty of time to take a day trip to a city that I have only fond memories of.  The universe truly felt aligned in my favor.

It turned out to be just the most perfect day, chocked full of my favorite things.  I left the house in the morning to beautiful weather, drove down just late enough to avoid morning traffic, and returned after an early dinner to avoid the afternoon rush hour.  And here’s what I did in between.

Neptune Oyster Bar:  This is my top thing in Boston, and the minute I heard about the Dali exhibit, I thought “ooooooh I can go to Neptune’s too!”  If you like seafood, this is one of the best spots I’ve been in the world; I go every time I visit the city – and it might even be worth a trip to the city just for this.  The first trip here was the best because I was with a group, and thus got to try a lot more things, but even on my own, sitting at the bar with a sparkling water and my book, I feast.  On this particular perfect day, I started with the Scallop Crudo, then devoured a platter of various oysters and clams, and finished the best possible way with the Neptune Dessert – a huge Johnnycake topped with honey butter, smoked bluefish, and caviar.  Seriously, however you go in a meal at Neptune’s, I would always end with the Johnnycake for dessert.  Trust me.  Other than that, there is no going wrong, so let your heart be your guide!

Hot Tip:  Neptune’s doesn’t take reservations, so there is almost always a line outside.  They open at 11am, so I got there about 10:45 and was maybe 3^rd or 4^th in line.  The place was packed immediately upon opening though.  Another good time?  Mid afternoon, between lunch and dinner.

A Walk Around the North End:  This is the area of Boston that I’ve spent the most time in, and thus know the best, but I am continually enchanted by it.  The home of countless great restaurants (like Neptune’s), delis, tiny specialty groceries, bakeries and cafes (like Mike’s), green spaces and wharfs, stops on the Freedom Trail, neat old buildings, and a myriad of other fun things to look at as you gad about – this is one of those ideal places to just wander.  Back in 2021, I found this fabulous tiny little Italian grocer that looked like it had been open about a hundred years – I searched for it on this day and could not find it!  The North End holds her secrets still.  This is also the home of the Feast of Saint Anthony, if you’re lucky enough to get your timing right.  If you like food or history or old buildings or life, really, go doodle about in the North End, it does not disappoint.

Mike’s Pastry:  A very important stop for your wander around the North End.  After walking off the stuffing I got at Neptune’s, it was time for some real dessert!  The best thing here is the cannoli, which are stuffed to order and come in ridiculous number of varieties, but I do not think there is a bag choice to choose within these walls.  It can be chaotic – when it’s busy there are like 87 lines going, and it’s hard to see everything in the cases – but the cannoli options are listed high up on the back wall.  And when all else fails and you don’t know what to do, ask the person helping you what their favorite thing is.  Everyone likes to share their favorite things.

Hot Tip:  CASH ONLY

Museum of Fine Arts:  The whole purpose of this trip was to see the Dali exhibit, and it was absolutely marvelous.  His paintings are really just magical, fantastic dreams come to life.  After basking in the nonsense and silliness, however, I had to have at least a brief wander around the rest of the joint.  I started in the Art of Asia Collection’s Japanese art section (on the second floor) and was immediately lost in joyful tranquility.  My personal highlight here was the Buddhist Temple Room.  According to their website, the room “was designed in 1909 to evoke the contemplative atmosphere of a Buddhist temple.”  There are even wide benches with seat pillows, inviting you to take a few minutes to meditate in the serenity.  After a morning in the hustle and bustle of the city, it was delightful! (read more about the newly renovated Japanese art galleries here).

Next I wandered along into the European Impressionist galleries to get lost in the ethereal colors of Degas and Monet.  Here I found the biggest surprise of the day in Renoir’s Dance at Bougival.  For as long as I can remember, a copy of this painting has hung in my parent’s bedroom (they joke that it’s their wedding photo, as they look similar to the couple portrayed), but no one actually knew anything about it – who painted it, where it hung, all a mystery.  Apparently, they just found the print somewhere random and liked it.  So imagine my amusement at stumbling upon it here!  So many mysteries solved.

Hot Tip:  Check out the museum’s map and visitor’s guide here – it includes all the best-of-the-best highlights to hit if you’re limited on time.  Or check out the free one-hour guided tours that leave from the Visitor’s Center!

Coppa:  By the time I wandered my way out of the museum, it was rush hour traffic and I was hungry, so I elected to kill two birds with one stone and get some dinner before heading out.  I’ve been to Coppa on both my previous recent trips to Boston, it wasn’t too far from the museum, and they were opening soon (the best time to walk into a popular restaurant without reservations is right when they open).  When I arrived, I was informed that it was Gluten Free Night, which seemed preposterous – this is an Italian pasta joint!  How?? Why???  But after being assured that they used the best gluten free pastas, and realizing that it’s actually pretty dope of them to bring pasta to the pastaless, I decided to go for it anyway.  Even though it was a change to my plan (I had obviously already looked at the menu and picked out my food!), I had a delicious meal and was so glad I stayed!  The Stappi Spritz was a wonderfully bitter mocktail, and the raw oysters topped with escabeche made a delicious substitute for the Coppa di Testa (braised pig’s head croqueta) I was hoping for. Most surprising was the pasta – I just could not forgo my favorite pasta dish, which I still remembered in exquisite detail from my last visit here in 2021, the Spaghetti Carbonara.  Carbonara is already one of my all-time comfort foods (my mom made it a lot growing up), and this elevated version with the addition of uni (sea urchin) is just perfect.  Even if the pasta’s not the best, I figured, the rest of the dish will make up for it.  But the pasta was actually really good!  I was shocked by not missing the delightful gluten of regular pasta.  Shocked!  And it was the perfect way to end My One Perfect Day in Boston, in a charming setting, with lovely people, eating delicious food.

Hot Tip:  There is really lovely outdoor seating here if the weather is fine.

Other Recommendations in Boston:

The Freedom Trail – A great path to guide your wander through the oldest parts of the city.  Make sure not to keep your eyes just on the red line; stop at all the random places you find along the way!  You can book a guided tour here, or just take advantage of the free audio guide from the National Park Service (here).

Boston Public Gardens – An idyllic place to while away a few hours, wandering amongst the first public botanical gardens in the country.  

Fenway Park – Being someone who grew up in a baseball town, but doesn’t actually care about baseball, I can tell you that this tour was surprisingly interesting!  I definitely wouldn’t have planned this activity myself, but if you’re into baseball, or stadiums, or someone you’re traveling with is, then this is a worthwhile stop.

Newbury Street – Even if you’re not super into shopping (I am not), a stroll down Newbury Street has its charm.  For one, the people watching is fabulous.  And there’s a plethora of food and drink options.  And if you manage to catch a Pedestrian Only Day, it gains the feel of a market bazaar!  But also, sometimes your trip is unexpectedly extended (effing Ida) and you need to buy more underwear.

Chinatown – Like so many Chinatowns around the world, Boston’s is packed with Asian eateries, bakeries, food markets, gift shops, and general eye candy.  I love any kind of cultural center for a displaced community, and like so many, this is a great place to wander, and to eat.

Toro – I still dream about the meal I had here back in 2017.  It’s Spanish tapas (my favorite) done with aplomb.  I particularly remember the variety of Gin & Tonics in huge bulbous glasses (very Spanish), and the bone marrow, and leaving feeling like I might burst.

Haley.Henry – A tiny little wine bar with gusto.  Small plates, tinned seafood from around the globe, cheese & charcuterie, ceviche & crudo, and a predominantly female staff (which warms my little heart, coming from the male-dominated industry as I am).  This is another place that I remember so fondly from 2017 that I had to search it out again in 2021, and just the memory of it still brings me joy.

For more food recommendations, check out Boston’s Eater page